The Oregonian, Portland, OR., June 8, 1913, page 8
Includes photographs
APPLE ORCHARDS GRADUALLY DRAW NEARER SNOW LINE OF MOUNT HOOD
Upper Hood River Valley Proves Place of Peace and Plenty, Dreams and
Demonstrations and Becoming Home of Army of Former City Dwellers
By Joe D. Thomison
HOOD RIVER, Or., June 14. -- (Special) -- During the
past three yearn the apple orchards of the Hood River Valley have been
approaching closer and closer to the snow line of Mount Hood, until today
the visitor to the upper Valley of this mid-Columbia orchard district is
surprised to find the forests and brush land giving way to the tilled groves
of young trees and the homes of new residents at the foot of the towering
white peak of the "Witch Mountain," as Hood has been termed by
Indians.
For three years in no part of the entire valley has so
much land been cleared and so many new homes built as in this district.
Immediately south of the village of Parkdale, the terminus of the Mount Hood
Railroad, and a settlement not, yet five years old, the traveler may easily
believe he is touring a neat, new suburban addition of a city, such is the
architecture of the recently built homes and their proximity to each
other.
Six years ago on a quarter section of land a single small
dwelling stood, isolated, shut in by the giant fir trees that rear themselves
for a hundred feet toward the skies. Today seven new and modernly equipped
bungalows, most of them having been built in the. past two years, and two
just being completed, form a picture of rural development. And from an eminence
in this district one can see more than a thousand acres of young apple trees,
some of them 3 years old and others just planted.
Orchardists Have Faith.
While the past year has been one of temporary discouragement,
the Upper Valley residents have faith in the industry and progress is noted
on every hand. The smoke from the slashing fire of the land clearings ascends
to the heavens daily and the trees on more than 100 acres, where they have
just been planted are taking root. There are but few bearing orchards in
the Upper Valley, but those that have produced fruit have demonstrated that
the district produces a long-keeping apple of excellent quality. It is not
as large as the fruit of the Lower Valley, but many of the Upper Valley residents
declare that the time will come when their product will be placed on the
market under a special brand, because of its extraordinary keeping
qualities.
The coolness of the nights here seems to give an extra
firmness to the fruit, and even the Gravenstein, which is well known in lower
altitudes as an early Fall variety, becomes here in reality a Winter apple,
and may be taken from the cellars as late as the first Summer months, retaining
all of its firmness and flavor. The Golden Ortley, ordinarily a poor keeper,
also bids fair to become a popular variety with Upper Valley growers because
of its long lasting qualities acquired by growth there.
Mount Hood Casts Sell.
The settlers of this new orchard district came from Portland,
from the Middle West, from the South, New England and New York City. For
the most part those who now reside there are former city residents, who sought
the quiet of country life in the West and who were lured to, the district
by the wonderful natural scenery; for here, in addition to the inspiring
spectacle of Mount Hood towering above them, the people may look across the
broad expanse of the Lower Valley to the peaks of Mount Adams and Mount St.
Helens in Washington.
But the "Witch Mountain" is the enchantress that lures
the newcomers to linger and be caught by the spell that she casts on all
who look upon her ever changing face, whether it be from the distance, or
at her base, and all who have ever lived any length of time in the Upper
Valley declare that whenever they are long absent from spots where they can
behold her snow white pinnacle they feel the irresistible call to
return.
One never tires of the mountain, for it never presents
the same picture any two moments of a day. It might be likened to a mammoth
painting on which some unseen titan with an invisible brush expands his
inspirations in the colors of nature, herself. Now the sun may sparkle with
an indiscernible brilliancy on the snow particles of the vast fields and
the exposed points of deep blue glacier ice, the peak rising in a sky as
limpid as a sylvan lake, where nymphs come to peer and mirror themselves
in the preparation of their toilet. In a twinkling a tiny cloud may blow
up from the south and cast its shadow, changing all. The haze may changed
to lowering storm clouds and the mountain may seem to be trying to retire
in the black veil in an effort to hide from the expected fury of the elements.
Small Streams Numerous
Nor are men and women as happy in a region stamped by
the monotony of the sameness as a corner of the earth where they may not
only be able to look upon the wildest grandeur of nature but also repair
to simpler nooks and hide themselves in narrower confines of beauty. The
Upper Valley is threaded with small streams, their sources in the springs
at the glaciers' ends. Sport for the Nimrod abounds and deciples of Sir Isaac
Wa___ from the Lower Valley make annual tours to these wild, dashing trout
streams. The Upper Valley man need never become dull for lack of out of doors
play and sport.
In the Fall he may hunt to his heart's content, for bear
and deer abound in virgin forests as his back door. In the more remote sections
of the district ranchers complain that in the late Fall the deer take too
great a toll from their meadows, and the tracks of the nimble, wild creatures
may be found on almost any summer day in the tilled surface of the fields
or orchards.
In a region of such wonderful natural scenery one might
expect the people to be prone to become poetic, especially the recently
transplanted city dwellers, and lacking in the practical ideas of which farmers
are supposed to be the masters. Indeed, one may carry away the faint suspicion
that he has been among dreamers after a sojourn in the Upper Valley, but
the evidences of the deeds that he beholds on every hand shows that men may
dream and work at the same time. In no community is the diversity of farming
taking so deep a hold as in the Upper Valley. The residents here will make
orcharding their principal work, but they do not want to put all of their
eggs in one basket, and the raising of pigs and cows and chickens has become,
too, one of the tasks.
Stores Are Convenient
The district supports two general merchandise stores
and many of the ranchers, when the month's statement of business is received,
smile when they behold a balance on the credit side; for the sum total of
the products that they have sold to the merchant is larger than that which
they have expended for the necessaries of life that they cannot produce on
their ranches.
In no part of the state are irrigation projects more
cheaply constructed than in this district. Three systems supply water to
the Upper Valley residents. On the West Side of the southern part of the
district the supply is had for the exceedingly small sum of $2.50 per inch
from the Middle Fork of the Hood River. The East Side of the district is
watered by the Glacier Irrigating Company, a co-operative concern that has
impounded the flow of the Tillie Jane, a glacial creek, The farmers of the
Mount Hood district, that part of the country lying next to the range of
hills that divides the Upper Valley from the Lower, have water practically
free. In the pioneer days the ranchers banded themselves, together here and
dug a ditch, and now, to flood the orchards and hay fields, no greater effort
is required than the infinitely small task of opening the gates of the system.
In this particular district there is a growing sentiment that more profit
can be derived from the growth of hay and grain and the production of milk
and butter than in raising apples, and a creamery has been proposed.
Some of the earliest homesteads of the apple community
are in the Mount Hood district, where formerly all business interests of
the Upper Valley centered, but the construction of the railroad to Parkdale
has set about a shifting process. The Mount Hood store has closed its doors.
Although a postoffice is maintained there, the postmaster has but little
work. Most of the mail is distributed at Parkdale, the starting point of
a rural free delivery route, the carrier of which delivers daily the latest
metropolitan papers.
Parkdale Shows Growth
In less than five years from the mere end of a railroad
in the forest. Parkdale has grown to a substantial village with a church,
schoolhouse, mercantile establishment, commodious railroad station, hotel
and numerous residences.
As in all other things, the Upper Valley residents practice
co-operation in their religious worship. The community has organized a union
church with two buildings, one at Mount Hood and the other at Parkdale. Members
of all denominations are tree to affiliate with the congregation. Rev. W.L.
VanNuys, formerly the pastor of a Presbyterian church at Pendleton, is pastor
of the Upper Valley Union Church, and preaches on alternate Sundays at the
two churches.
One of the most interesting of the Upper Valley residents
is J.F. Thompson, a grizzled pioneer, who has built a home beside the 116-acre
orchard tract which he and his partner, A. Millard, an Omaha banker, have
developed -- a home that might cause any me to disobey the injunction of
Holy scripture and covet. He has been a farmer in many states, having raised
corn in Ohio, wheat in Indian Territory, and stock in the Rocky Mountain
country. Broken In health, he sought a more fostering clime, eight rears
ago, going first to Southern Oregon. "But I was still restless with the fever
warming my blood," he says, "and my wife, children and I, placing our belongings
in a wagon, secured a team and began a tour across the Cascades of Southern
Oregon over to he headwaters of the Deschutes. We took our time and traveled
in leisurely stages down that stream and thence into Eastern Oregon. But
we returned down the Columbia to The Dalles, where we embarked on a boat
or Portland. From that city our journeys led up into the district of the
Willamette. It was here that we decided to make a visit to the Hood River
Valley, and we shipped our wagon and goods by boat to Hood River.
Homesteaders Finally Win.
"Many times in our travels I was on the point of settling
down, but I was glad that we had continued the journey when I beheld the
little protected cove in the Upper Valley, where I now have my home. All
this region was a wilderness then, but I saw the possibilities. Orchard planting
was in its heyday in the Lower Valley, but as yet no commercial tracts had
been set in the Upper region. The homesteaders disappeared every year in
the early Summer and left for the grain fields of Central Oregon, where they
earned enough money to, purchase the necessities of life that they were not
able to produce on their small clearings, All of them are growing apple trees
now and selling their surplus labor at a greater return than that of the
grain fields at their doors"
However, the Upper Valley land, as has been proved, can
produce as great a yield of wheat as any part of the state, although but
few fields are sown with grain. On the Boneboro orchard tract, about a mile
and a half north of Parkdale, where more than a hundred acres have just been
cleared by a huge donkey engine and crews of Japanese, a field was sown to
wheat last year. The grain was harvested, before it matured, for hay. Experts
said that if it had been allowed to ripen it would have yielded more than
60 bushels per acre. The unusual rain of the present year is causing another
large tract of wheat to grow with such vigor in the deep, mellow soil, that
it is believed that the estimate of last year will be surpassed.
Amusement Is Provided
Existence does not grow tedious in the Upper Valley because
of lack of social festivities. In addition to the usual functions of the
community, the Progressive Association presents each Winter an excellent
lyceum course for the entertainment and education of the residents. But none
of these affairs is more keenly interesting than the number prepared and
presented by the members of the club themselves. An annual event that draws
large crowds from the Lower Valley is the production of the variety and
vaudeville show of the Upper Valley people at the Parkdale Hall.
A significant feature of the new apple community is the
large number of young bachelors and the small number of unmarried girls.
Within a radius of but little more than two miles in the Upper Valley 27
young bachelors, more than a score of them graduates of Eastern colleges,
have built homes among their new orchards. It has been suggested that families
with marriageable girls that are planning on seeking new homes on the Pacific
Coast, might lay the foundation for much pleasant work for Cupid by choosing
homes in the Upper Valley. The little Love God has already been busy in the
community, for every schoolmistress that has ventured to teach there has
won the admiration of one of the bachelor men and caused him to turn benedict.
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© Jeffrey L. Elmer