The road from Starkholmes to Riber is a steep twisting winding road that
seems to double back on itself before unwinding on to the flat and straight
stretch of road that leads to the village of Riber. We however have other plans.
We make a turn right and head along the long lane towards the hamlet of
Hearthstone. The weather is breezy, but comfortably so. Get caught up here on a
rainy cold day and that's another matter as the wind blows across a mainly
treeless plateau.
Hearthstone Lane flanked by stone walls has hidden among it's stonework a
Boundary Marker from 1860's. It reveals the extent of the new Tansley Parish
boundary when Riber became part of Tansley parish. There were four erected back
in the 1860's, I have found three of them, the fourth remains a mystery.
Hearthstone itself is made up of three farm houses and it's here where the road
ends and three tracks begin. One leads to Littlemoor, usually flooded, another
one leads to High Leas and Low Leas Farms.
In 1851 William FOX farmed land owned by Heath Church, at Littlemoor. Kniveton
born George WIGLEY, at 82 thirty two years older than son John
who lived with
him also farmed in the area. Both men were widowers.
Isaac Rains farmed 84 acres at High Leas. He came from Grange near Ible.
Matthew MARSH did his work at Low Leas farm. A Bonsall born man he would be
buried at Matlock in 1865.
One house in Hearthstone itself was occupied by Thomas HAYNES wife Mary and five
children, his mother aged 69 was living with him as were Lodgers George and
Eliza GOODALL. There daughter Eliza was born like her mother in Buxton. George
had come across the other side from Lea.
Another Hearthstone family was William CARLINE who being brave had his mother in
law Ellen DAFFIN a 76 year old widow living with him and his wife Ann.
Two of the fields Thomas HAYNES had as occupier give a clue as to what activity
may have took place high on this hill. One field called "Smilting" and another
called "Bellandy Piece". Another field nearby has the name "Leadgate Close".
Thomas HAYNES house is still there. A nice place to stay it being a bed and
breakfast.
The third track is the one that leads us towards Cromford. It's an ancient way,
high walls either side, track boulder scattered and sandy. Bracken and foxglove
line its route. Looking back we can see Riber Castle from an entirely different
view from the one most people are accustomed. It's setting from this angle
making it look even more medieval.
Castle Top Road was not named after Riber Castle because its name appears on the
Enclosure of 1784. Riber was built much later. More than likely the "Castle" is
Willersley, home of the Arkwright family. Along the route, the view of
Willersley set back from the Derwent in it's park like setting can be seen. It's
not exactly Chatsworth but it setting is presentable.
Another house which can be seen on the track is that of William SALES, or maybe
SEALS as found in the census, though it doesn't make it exactly clear he is
living on Castle Top Road. The ruin, for that is what it is, situated across
from a "lost road" called Watering Road leading to Nettle Well. Today Watering
Road is closed off by barbed wire, but Nettle Well is still fed by a spring
which now waters the thirst of cattle.
William SALES house of which a corner and gate posts survive once was part of a
property that consisted of outbuildings, court, stackyard and garden. Amongst
the elder bushes and nettle and brambles one can make out what seems to have
been the garden. Many a traveller in years gone by must have welcomed coming
across this house, if only to re-assure them that Matlock lay somewhere beyond
the hill.
The house does not appear on the 1784 Enclosure.
Further down from William's house are a couple of apple trees, not likely to
have been is, as they are too small, but not to big for Patricia to climb. On
one occasion while attempting to grab an apple a cyclist came down the lane and
was totally bamboozled as to why someone should be found up a tree. His friend
following through asked him if he was alright as he ploughed into the rough
ground and parted company with his bike. He was, if not a little embarrassed.
Patricia though enjoyed her apple.
Hidden out of sight of the path is yet another spring, or stone trough. Buried
deep in the undergrowth we found it one day looking for Nettle Well. On closer
inspection it was obvious a track led to this well and other tracks also led off
into the wood. Some major activity had taken place here years before. It may be
connected with lead smelting.
The view looking towards Cromford takes in the Meadows and two teams battle it
out as bat thumps ball and cries of "howzat" are carried across the river and
back up to Castle Top. Meadow Wood Farm sits at the foot of the wood, its black
roof tucked away from the world as does the former home of William TAYLOR later
to become the home of Alison UTTLEY the novelist. A double gabled house it
stands alone and majestic, as we descend the track. Old barns, will perfect
roofs stand solid in the field. Huge tree stumps still survive, hollowed out
now, but must have been around for hundreds of years. The fields are covered
with masses of purple thistles, the sheep chew the grass into lawn size pieces,
except for the marshy parts, and the breeze blows upon us the fresh air you
associate with the countryside. In the distance is the huge Dene Quarry and high
above it Middleton by Wirksworth
Patricia reaches out and takes a taste of the country, a taste of summer as she
calls it and pops a few raspberries into her mouth. A sign on a gate states "
Please keep" but no one wants it. It could have said "Please keep away", but we
take no notice as we do a turn into Bow Wood.
Before turning onto the path that will take us into the wood, we take a small
detour to look at the old farms below on the hillside above the Lea to Cromford
Road. These old buildings must have occupied this ground for centuries. Long
roofs and an assortment of different sized chimneys meet the eye. Buildings jut
out here and there from Bow Wood Farm. Across the valley runs the main road, the
A6, and it's from this vantage point that the best view can be obtained of these
wonderful ancient homes.
A deed of 1338 tells of Lawrence COTEREL leasing a meadow called the Boghmedwe
to Peter de WAKEBRUGG with liberty to enclose the meadow with a hedge during the
term. The term was for five years. Could these hedges before us be the "children
of that original hedging?
Of course we do not know if Peter even bothered to erect a hedge. Later on
Hugh
son of Lawrence gifted to Peter and his son William the Boghmedwe, not just
meadow now, but "that which was ploughed and sown in the time of Laurence his
father." The witness was John de MESLACHE, an old name for Matlock.
Talking of names a further deed again by Hugh, this time stating he was from
Cromford, gives to Nicholas BROUN of Wodesetes a plot of meadow called le Heyhe
between the Boughwood and the land of Geoffrey son of John, for his life. It was
witnessed by Thomas le MEIGNERS, Lord of Willardesleye.
The question is it called Bow Wood or Bow Wood. Bow as in rainbow, or Bow as in
the bough of a tree. Or might it even have been called Boff Wood, Bough as in
Cough. Or might it even have been Bog Wood. The meadow does lie next to the
river, shaped like a bow with out an arrow, Maybe Timothy TAYLOR who at the time
of the Tithe lived there could tell us. We could cross the "road" that crossed
the land called the Bage. Or even Joseph ROLLEY, who within a few years of the
Tithe would be dead. His Berkshire born wife Hannah in her mid fifties, now at
home with her Bakewell born children Ann and Edwin. Eddie was a joiner so no
doubt he felt good about being at Bow Wood.
Timothy TAYLOR aged 62 and Matlock born had married a lass born on another
Derbyshire river. His wife Rebecca came from Doveridge and she had four children
to look after aged between twenty three and thirty one. With ninety acres of
farm to look after maybe Tim junior and John, the other son, helped out.
We go back up the track and turn onto the path that will lead us into the wood
itself. On our left above us is another wonderfully maintained cottage.
Lavender, foxglove, roses and other cottage garden flowers and well manicured
lawns make this a picture postcard haven. This in 1851, was the home of George
ELLIOT, an agricultural labourer he and his Milisent had wonderful views over
the hillside and across the way above Ridgewood not to far from Cromford. They
probably knew the same apple tree Patricia tried to spy in the same fields they
no doubt saw. Unfortunately for Patricia the apple tree could not be seen,
neither the small enclosure it belonged to. I didn't ask her what she was doing
in a walled enclosure. Samuel ELLIOT, son of George was a butcher. He had been
born at Ashover around 1825. George junior born Darley Dale was an overlooker in
a factory. How good it must have felt to come home, having been trapped within a
mill all day to enjoy the surrounding countryside. Ann a thirteen year old
daughter was a scholar, and also living with them, five year old nephew Samuel.
We now enter the wood itself, used by countless folks over the decades on their
way to Lea Mills. It's still the safest route to Lea Bridge because the Lea
Cromford road has no footpath, has blind corners, is narrow and in a word
dangerous. Having said that the wood is not exactly enticing either. Patricia
when asked, described it as eerie. I expected to find a cottage made of sweets
and candy, be introduced to Hansel and Gretel, watch out for trees that could
creep up behind you and an old woman with a wart on her nose offering apples.
We had the feeling we were being followed, every time I turned round I had the
distinct feeling someone was hiding just out of sight. We pressed on, again I
turned round, again something hid out of sight. We were to learn later, that
Jasper the springer Spaniel loves back packs, he associates it with food. Not
this one he doesn't. Rations are low, and he's got four legs, doesn't have to
put money on his mobile phone but, just barks and can catch a rabbit if he
want's to. Which I suggest in my best dog you've no chance look. He gets the
message and leaves wagging his tail, knowing you can't win 'em all. Gracefully
accepted he bounds away into the depths of the forest.
Now we were alone again, Jasper was probably tucking into rabbit pie or a
haversack. A silver birch has fallen across the path and onto another tree
forming a ladder for any squirrels who feel that climbing vertical gives them
vertigo.
Suddenly the darkness of the wood begins to lose it's hold, and we see, like
knights in shining armour a large number of silver birch, all switched on and
beaming together to light up the wood. As we pass them it's as if some one has
turned the light off.
A huge tree has bent itself into a bow. It forms a perfect arch over the path.
It must be hundreds of years old but not older that the 14th Century deed. Would
have been nice to think that this tree gave it's name to the place.
We come to the edge of the path and enter Lea Bridge, here John SMEDLEY had his
mills. I worked here long after Mr Smedley was dead and lasted three days. I was
expected the run fabric over thousands of needles without it laddering. I gave
it my best shot but after producing more ladders than a window cleaners
convention and losing gallons of blood in the process I threw in the towel. I
still have fond memories of the place, basically the leaving bit.
We cross the bridge above the stream which divides Matlock from Lea, down the
middle. Jasper is there one half of him in Lea the other half in Matlock. He is
trying to catch something that has just emigrated into Matlock. He hesitates,
probably looking for his passport, but it is to late. The border patrol shout
him in and his owner puts him on his lead and heads home.
Meanwhile John SMEDLEYs are having a sale, this is indeed bad timing. Patricia's
eyes light up when she sees parcel laden women trooping across to the car park.
I suppose like a good fairy tale there has to be a happy ending. There is as the
shop shuts before we can get there.
That's what I call a thriller.
Lea Mills is a big red brick complex, there are large clocks on the walls of
some of the buildings, no doubt to make the tardy rush to clock on. They both
tell different times. Maybe they can't find anyone with a ladder long enough to
climb up and turn the winder.
Many locals would have worked here, a major player in employment. Apart from the
factory here there is very little else, a few houses and no shops. The framework
knitter style old mill, stone built, with stone slated roof stands back from the
red brick complex. Behind it lies the road to Splash Farm.
At one time there were lead (Joseph WASS) and Gas works in Lea Bridge. It also
had a Post Office, a small place on the triangle of ground across from the mill.
We sit awhile in the bus shelter, a poster tells us that Brassington is the
place to be if you want to follow some oriental martial arts. It's not an old
shelter but already the ivy is creeping through the roof. On the ground an army
of ants carry pieces of leaves, looking like little boats on legs hauling cargo.
The barges of long ago came this way, for just round the corner is Wharf
Cottage, and the remains of the cut from the Cromford Canal where barges brought
coal and took away goods from the mills. WHEATCROFTS of Cromford playing a big
part.
Lea Bridge Lodge seems to have been successfully extended in keeping with the
original building, as we walk along the lane past the house. Herb Robert, pink
campion and killer nettles line the route.
Lea Wood Lodge may not have as many chimneys as the Bow Wood Houses but they are
the most ornate of those we have seen for many a long while.
We climb up the hill following the footsteps of one Florence NIGHTINGALE, who on
arriving back from the Crimea came straight to Lea Hurst choosing to miss out
out on any great fuss. Back then the Cromford Lea road would not have been so
dangerous as she passed under the shadow of Bow Wood.
In 1829 five years after Lea Hurst was built this area, of Lea Holloway and
Dethick boasted five families involved in quenching the thirst of many a mill
worker or farm labourer. Ann BRADFORD had the Three Horse Shoes, George FLINT
the Jug and Glass at Lea, whilst John ELSE, Paul RADFORD and Ann SIMPSON were victuallers.
George SMITH at Holloway must have been a busy chap, his business
being the only shop in the district. John GIBSON of Lea also was onto a good
thing. Selling and repairing boots and shoes, for all those folks who walked to
Matlock and Wirksworth for all the things George SMITH didn't stock.
Near the top of the hill the road turns left towards
Little London, so little you dont know it's there. It's basically a steep road
leading of Church Street.
There's an art exhibition somewhere on here and Patricia wants to visit it.
She has developed a taste for culture ever since Smalley, where she also
entered into the rooms of paint and canvas. Today she entered into the living
room of someones house, a simple mistake for the gallery was next door. When
we walked in we received a quiet hello, and a few stares. We studied the
pictures but noticed we had missed out on the wine. We spent a few minutes
looking round, went downstairs where Patricia picked up and put down a cushion
worth a weeks groceries. We came back up, picked up a leaflet and left. Little
did we know it was a private viewing and that Britains Minister for Art had
officially opened the event for seventy privately invited individuals before
it goes open to the public. Gatecrashing is not our scene, but it's a good one
to gate crash, one where a Government Minister had been to, only fact is we
didn't know we had done so. Still the attendance figures will be a little
higher even if the sales remained the same.
Having left Little London we make our way the few yards
into the Post Office and shop that is a lifeline to Holloway. Not having enough
room in the rucksack for a masterpiece from next door, Patricia goes on a spree
and buys two bananas one apple and four blackjacks. I don't think even Jasper
would bother us for that shipment.
We come back to the junction with the Lea to Crich road, opposite is Lea
Hurst. Built in 1825, home of Florence NIGHTINGALE later to become
a residential care home and now recently closed down. A sign hangs on the now
locked gate showing a picture of Florence stating that she "is sorry to be
leaving Lea Hurst" underneath the last residents have added their same
sentiment.
Denis ALLSOPPE left the area a long time ago. He did however leave a
Will. Denis was of Bow Wood, a husbandman, and his Will of 1628 mentions his
wife Margaret and son Denis. Robert ALLSOPPE of the Lea in
the parish of Ashover is mentioned along with his son William and
daughters of Robert, Margaret and Elizabeth. William
ALLYN also of Lea and Thomas SPENCER of High Leas were to act as
Overseers of the Will. They both witnessed the Will along with Robert
HIBBERSON and John ALLYN. When he died numerous people owed him
money, Michael and Anthony WOODDISSE, Robert FOX,
Francis BACON and William HASLAM were some of those in debt. However
Denis owed money out to others including Thomas SPENCER and Geo SWIFTE
of Wheatcroft.
His Inventory shows he had an assortment of animals running around the farm. He had three pigs, who were very fortunate to be listed at all, because he
also had six "flitches of bacon and swine grease". Two hens and a cock, two
geese and six goslings. Seven year old calves, kyne, and two bulls. A mare, a
foal and two year old ponies.
He was also a man who had a spinning wheel, a frying pan, various bits of
pewter, bolsters, pillows, beds, three cupboards and a ladder.
He also had "certain manure at the Bowe Wood" along with sheep and some lambs.
Sheep were to figure greatly in the area over the years.
Numerous documents mention them for one reason or another.
Thomas TOMPKINSON in 1664 made mention he had lost a sheep taken out of a
piece of ground called the Oxclose. He did eventually find it, but it was in two
halves, one in Anthony WALTONS house in Matlock the other half at
Roger SILKSTONES home.
Anthony WALTON was yet to perfect the perfect crime, but on this occasion
he failed miserably. He stole the sheep and then struggled home. Leaving behind
him the imprints of the animal and his footprints in the snow!
Roger SILKSTONE meanwhile was also caught in possession of three pounds
of candles, belonging to Robert VICKERS and partners. They had a grove in
Lea Wood. Presumably Roger was going to cook the sheep with the candles!
Yew Tree Inn with its bright red door beckons,
but time is against us. Yew Tree Inn has its own matching
accessory. An old red telephone box to go with its bright red
door stands just a few yards in front of the door. We could
make a call to Den, the crafty cockney, but we decide to press
on having told a friend in Holloway we would call her at seven
thirty, our estimated time of arrival. I like that word,
estimated, it means you can afford to be miles out.
We pass narrow Chapel Lane and head up the Hollow, a steep hill
into Upper Holloway. Bank House has thick worn stone pavers
outside its doorway Lavender Cottage has thick stone pavers for
its roof. Two houses set at different angles point us in the
right direction. North View and South View must be every lost
travellers dream. I just hope they don't want to go east or
west!
Climbing the hill we look over the valley and in the distance
we see the long stretch of road that is Longway Bank and nearer
to us is Sheep Pasture Incline where the Cromford and High Peak
railway set out from Highpeak Junction.
Further up the hill are the remains of old quarry workings, now
hidden by heather and bracken, silver birch and all manner of
natural coverlets. The noise and dust long abated, we are on a
quiet stretch of road. Stone walls line the road, maybe cut
from the very quarry we pass.
At the top of the hill old well cared for cottages are on view.
What would their names reveal? The "Old Smithy", "The School
house"? No, we have the Anchorage. I know it rains a bit but
that's stretching it a bit. I look round for a sign of any
boatyard or a canoe even. Not even a paddle in evidence. Maybe
the next home will give us some insight into the history of
this pleasing little group of houses. The Cottage says it all.
Every village has a cottage called The Cottage. How did the
post man go on in the days of the Penny Black before post
codes? Those were the days when everyone knew about every one
else. The postman delivered the post to the wrong Cottage,
that's how they knew. To get there own back, the villages
trained dogs to bite postmen's ankles. Now we understand why a
house is called the Anchorage seven hundred feet above sea
level. To make sure they get their mail.
Of course knowing your neighbours business goes back a long
way. In 1742 an "a Greementt amongstt the whole Nightburhood
that Willm MARCHANT shall have no pay till his effects
bee lawfully distrebeted for their releeff like wise his son
John MARCHANTT to have no pay whilest in bissnes and helth".
John Marchants health was not to hold out. Six shillings
were paid for his coffin in 1743 and four shillings paid for
his burial. The same year William MARCHANT was
receiving one and sixpence a week, no doubt after getting rid
of his belongings to pay for his relief. Widow
Marchant received one horse load of coal at one shilling
and four pence.
Matthew PEAT put in a bill for three shillings
and five pence for a pair of "shows" for Alice HIDES.
They lasted about two years because Ben RADFORD
charged the Overseers three shillings for a new pair for Alice
in 1745.
Ben BERKIN received one and eight a week, he was at
Dorothy FLINTS in 1755, probably being cared for by her,
Ben was blind.
In 1779 Mary SMITH was given at several "difrent times "
money amounting to two shillings. On the 30 September Jos
MARSDEN was called out to attend J. SMITH. who the
Overseers record states had cut his throat. Mr Smiths bill was
one pound one shilling and ten pence, and at that price the
Overseer no doubt hoped J SMITH would survive to pay
back the cost of Mr MARSDENS intervention on his behalf.
Henry GREGORY was the Overseer in 1745, and the
following year the stocks at Lea were repaired. At just one
shilling and three pence it must have seemed a bargain compared
to Tansleys new one which cost twenty five shillings the same
year.
It is hard to imagine that a place such as this had to resort
to stocks, but here they are worn out by use and having to be
repaired!
The road leading out of Upper Holloway ad past the "Homestead",
another reason for the post code, leads us away from Matlock
but towards the ancient Shuckstone Cross, or the site of it, a
marker for travellers and pack horse men, now just a hollowed
out stone block with strange moon and star like shapes on it.
Probably an early version of West and East View!
You can find it across a few fields just inside the parish
boundary. That is along High Lane. Our journey though is along
Long Lane.
It's a name we have seen all over Derbyshire it seems. Now we
know why the post gets lost.
Long Lane is exactly that, a long lane, on the
Enclosure it's called
Longwalls Lane. After passing the farm buildings we are
confronted with a wide view. It's not called Upper Holloway for
nothing and you can see well into the distance. You can also
see miles of stone walls. Some of these were built in the late
1770's at the time of the Enclosure and the work of William LOW
and partners have stood the test of time. William LOW also
helped to enclose Plaistow Green. A document detailing the
expenses associated with Lea Enclosure relates that he was paid
on the 6th Nov for walling forty one roods at five shillings a
rood for the Plaistow job.
For Lea Commons he received on the same day Nov 6th 1778 nine
pounds thirteen shillings and sixpence. He was it seems. also
paid at different times as he received "towards walling" on the
10th June one guinea, June 28th ten shillings and sixpence. The
same amount on July 27th, Oct 5th and Oct 12th with a guinea
payment on the sixth of September. He helped to build 43 roods
on Lea Common.
Whoever compiled the bill made sure his expenses were paid for.
Several trips to Matlock Bath, one each to "Chrich" and
Plaistow Green and of course a dinner, and the occasion when at
Anthony TORRENTS on the 25th May, "the setting the bargin for
walling" was discussed.
A letter dated November 5th 1778 states he was to pay to the
Commissioners of Lea Inclosure at the House of Paul RADFORD in
Lea on Thursday the .. the rest is missing. William LOW was
paid the next day, so maybe it had something to do with him as
well.
It's a beautiful day for a walk, getting on a bit but the
prospect of
walking over the fields instead of along the Long Lane beckons.
However we had failed to negotiate with a herd of rather large
cows the right to free passage. A whole bunch of them decided
to picket the stile and no amount of buttercups were going to
make them budge. Anyway the bull at the back didn't look to
happy. So rather than upset him we carried along the lane.
An old path doubles back and we take a stroll down the track, a
man coming up tells us it is on top of a quarry. The
undergrowth hides that fact until you look closely. It must be
the quarry we passed on the way up, the heather covering it
makes you forget just where you are. There is a fence should
you stray. The Enclosure shows the path as being WILCOCKSONS
Gate.
The WILCOCKSON name appears in an ancient perambulation of
Dethick. In 1750 the boundary consisted in part of "A Stone
Boundary markt with Three X and a W being formerly Sett up by
One WILCOX". A further perambulation of 1772 calls it
WILCOCKSONS Stone.
The 1750 Perambulation was viewed by numerous local folk
interested in making sure no one encroached into another's
parish. So folk from other adjoining parishes were brought
along to agree the boundary markings. One old stone which had
for a long time been marked with an X had now disappeared, so
the letter X was cut into the turf, "Tansley Inhabitants being
present and Satisfyed with it".
Included in crowd on that day, the 24th of May 1750 was
"William ALSOP, William WOOD, Henry GREGORY, Hugh HOLE and
Henry FLINT. Old men living in Dethick and well Acquainted with
the Boundaries thereof"... Some of these men had walked the
walk some thirty years before, having had the knowledge handed
down to them by "Old men of the area who then living (but now
dead) "informed them of the bounds. These "Old men" had
themselves received such knowledge from other "Ancient men, in
their days living in Dethick and the neighbourhood thereof".
In 1750 the youngsters about to take on the mantle included
Joshua son of Ralph LOMAS, Henry, Charles and Isaac sons of
Henry GREGORY, John son of Hugh HOLE Thomas PURSLOVE servant to
Henry GREGORY Joseph KNOWLES and Benjamin GREGORY both
servants to Hugh HOLE and Thomas WILSON Servant to Ralph LOMAS.
Others present that day included Edward TAYLOR of South
Wingfield, Thomas CLAY of Higham, George LOMAS of Brassington,
Richard CALTON the younger of Chesterfield, William HALLOWS,
William MANLEY and Gervase BOSEVILE and Obadiah BOURNE Rector
of Ashover.
In 1772 on the twenty eighth day of May some familiar names
were once again perambulating. William HALLOWS, Hugh HOLE,
Henry GREGORY and William MANLEY were joined by Joshua LOMAS,
William FLINT Senior and William FLINT junior, William BUXTON,
William ELSE, John BRAILSFORD, Anthony WOOD, Enoch SMITHHURST,
Edward SMITHHURST, Thomas COLEY, Edward NUTALL and Thomas
ROTHERAM.
So it was on the twenty eighth of May 1772 that these men of
old kept alive the tradition of making sure that everything was
in its proper place once again, including Widow SLATERS sheep.
A memo written during the walk to mark the boundary stones
reads.
"Drove the Sheep belonging to Widow SLATER of Tansley which
were found within the Boundaries of Dethick from off Dethick
Common to Tansley Commons, and drove other sheep not belonging
to Dethick from off Dethick Commons into Lea Liberty."
The Enclosure of Lea Common came eight years later, so until
then the sheep no doubt had free reign. Maybe it was the sheep
that removed the boundary stone in 1750, they have no pockets
in which to put their Settlement Certificates. William LOW and
partners would end all that.
At an altitude of 700 foot we see a jet black
object crossing Long Lane. It seems to be in no hurry but is
oblivious to any traffic that may come its way. However it
seems to pick up speed and makes a headlong rush into the
undergrowth. Maybe the caterpillar is more bothered about any
birds hovering overhead. If ever there are any caterpillar
cordwainers they would make made a fortune. They could save
their money and one day fly away. A couple of butterflies pass
by having served their apprenticeship, having been pupa in
another time. Sadly for the caterpillar his grounding means he
can't see Dethick until he has saved up enough to earn his
wings, but we can see in the distance where we have to go.
However the Jug and Glass is on the way and a quick visit there
will restore us for the final push.
Dropping down a hundred feet we pass under an avenue of Horse
Chestnuts, sturdy specimens and every school boys dream. In the
late1770's Hannah HIGTON and Peter NIGHTINGALE
held this property, maybe the trees were "pony chestnuts" at
the time. It's possible the likes of Sam MARCHANT born
in 1815, and son of Joseph and Martha threw a few sticks at the
tree to knock down the prickly chestnuts. He no doubt wasn't
the only one for over the years others would have joined in
this sport. Billy CLOWES born around 1823 son of a lead
smelter, William RADFORD a blacksmiths son from Holloway
Baptised in 1832 and Samuel JACQUES who was baptised
five months after Sam MARCHANT. Who knows, those two
probably knocked each others conkers to bits.
We now turn right and follow a footpath that is edged by a high
wall for a considerable distance. Behind the wall lies Lea
Green. We follow the footpath that ends with the junction of
Holt Lane and the emergence of Holt House and Holt Cottage.
We carry on Sledgegate Lane turning left down past the playing
field just as the heavens opened, we are so near now to the Jug
and Glass it doesn't seem to matter until we see the
scaffolding erected outside the pub and the doors well and
truly closed! Back in 1829 George FLINT was mine host,
and we could have done with old George now to open up.
George was a busy chap, if the same George that is, for a
George FLINT and William SLATER were appointed
collectors of the land tax for the Township of Dethick and Lea
in 1826. They collected from the likes of Aaron STOPPARD,
George WRAGG, Gervase SPENDLOVE, William ROGERS,
John GOODALE, Charles BROOM, William BUXTON,
Adam WALKER, Isaac SPENCER, Charles ELSE,
Thomas AMAT, Rowland BUXTON, Samuel BUNTING,
Joseph MARTIN and William LEE, all tenants of W.
E. NIGHTINGALE. Mistress RADFORD was the owner of
property occupied by Sarah ALLIN, James PLATTS,
Joseph PEARSON and William ALSOP. The occupier
Tommy RIDLEY lived in property owned by Adam WALKER
and William SMITHURST, William GREGORY, Joseph
RADFORD and George ELSE were owner occupiers.
The other major landowner was Thomas HALLOWES and his
tenants included William ANDREW, William ELSE,
William FLINT, Joseph HARVEY, Sarah HANBY and
Thomas GOODWIN.
We pass the Jug and Glass and approach a row of six old houses
with stone mullioned windows and wonder how many of the tenants
of 1829 spent a night in the Jug and Glass.
The road rises gently here and in the distance is Patchett Wood
scene of a dispute in 1782 about a sheep wash. The
NIGHTINGALES and the HALLOWS having disagreements
over the right of use. However before we come to Patchett Wood
we swing left and turn down the footpath, cross the footbridge
over the Lea Brook and find ourselves among the trees and
rhododendron bushes that is part of Swinepark Wood.
We are now on our way to Dethick.
We emerge from the wood and cross the expanse
of green fields following the field path leading to Dethick.
The fields form a hollow and the water accumulates in the
bottom, just where we have to walk. Just as I am about to jump
on Patricia's back we find a way across the soggy terrain.
Dethick stands on the rise above us, its old church standing
alone as we enter the yard, devoid of sheep today, through a
metal kissing gate.
Joseph the illegitimate son of Dorothy WIGLEY was
baptised here in April 1824, she had made the short journey
from Tansley. William and Ann ELSE however had
their son, also called William after making the trip from
Chesterfield in 1822.
In 1700 William and Ann CASON left Dethick and
Lea to improve their lot at Dale Abbey. John STERNDALE
also once of Dethick and Lea had moved with his children Lydia
aged 11 Harriet 9 John 5 and George four, he may have had a
wife with him when he moved ,but in 1840 John died at Codnor,
leaving his children to the mercy of the Board of Guardians. A
memo states there was some disagreement as to their place of
Settlement. Would they return to Dethick and Lea?
There are no graves in this churchyard but a public footpath
through it into the "village".
You could say we are on hallowed ground because most of Dethick
is owned by Thomas HALLOWES. The Tithe map of 1849 shows
how little the place has changed. The owners were Thomas
HALLOWES whose Near Pearl Flat was occupied by William
WATHEY. George HANBY held the pasture called Lea
Leys. John RADFORD was occupier of Ley Leys as well as a
plantation owned by W. E. NIGHTINGALE while John LOWE
held Rye Croft off Dethick Chapel.
The farms of Dethick have changed very little, Manor Farm,
Church Farm and Babbington Farm, grouped as they are in a tight
cluster near the church. Mellow coloured stone walls gently
sweep round corners to lead one to one farm, guarded
ferociously by big brown hens. The road into the farms hasn't
changed much either, even Anthony BABBINGTON would have
walked on these paths. There is no black tarmac here, stones
and grass verges lead into the place.
Anthony BABBINGTON exploits in trying to free Mary Queen
of Scots is well documented, yet out of this little hamlet came
another well known celebrity, Simon GROOM. He was a
presenter of the children's programme Blue Peter, he no longer
lives in Dethick.
Also no longer living there were these folks mentioned in a
rental of 1740 Hugh HOLE paying over thirty three
pounds to the HALLOWES Estate for six months rent.
Ralph LOOMAS paid even more, thirty eight pounds, Henry
GREGORY paid eighteen pounds, one shilling and four pence,
and in 1786 maybe it was the same Henry GREGORY who paid
six shillings window tax.
Henry FLINT, William ALSOP and Peter
NIGHTINGALE made up the complement of the 1740 rental
paying between five and thirteen pounds.
A later rental of 1779 includes Widow BERKIN paying
fifty shillings and John BRAILSFORD paying just two
pence... We now have Joshua LUMAS paying one pound and
ten shillings less than Ralph in 1740. John ELSE paid
one pound and eleven shillings and sixpence for six months rent
and William HALLOWES of Scarsdale paid over forty
pounds. A note beside his name states "I expect this to be paid
to Mrs HALLOWS".
As we walk toward the road two huge beasts with horns as big as
oak branches peer over a wall. We hope they are no good at
climbing it. The cows in the field opposite appear a much
friendlier version. Feeding on William WATHEYS grass
they look content enough, but we by pass them and head up the
road towards Green Lane.
We have a few miles to go yet but a tremendous noise on the
other side of the lane draws us to investigate.
Millions of sheep, by that I mean a lot, are for some unknown
reason to us, bleating together. It's like the" Ewerovision"
song contest. Some seem to have had a crafty smoke before doing
there spot, coughing half way through, the upstarts can't quite
make the top notes ,their voices breaking mid bar. One has the
loudest voice, others try to bleat him out, but try as they
might they retire with sore throats, dragging their tails
behind them. Bo Peep didn't lose her sheep; she was trying to
get rid of them. They were giving her a headache.
Sheep are always appearing in documents it seems for this area.
Either being stolen or being prevented from using the washing
facilities in Patchett Wood. Today they still have a voice,
unfortunately we didn't have any cotton wool, the sheep had it!
Michael and Patricia