We arrived at Ripley having come by way of Heage with it's beautiful Windmill
perched high on the hill. Patricia thought it would make a good place to hang
out the washing, a sort of environmentally friendly spin dryer.
Ripley is a
bustling busy market town which has far outgrown it's parish sister Pentrich.
All Saints looking old and bold yet only built in 1820 had it's own registers
from 1821.The Pentrich Vestry Book for April 1850 confirms that George WOOLLEY
be re-appointed Churchwarden for Ripley. It separated from her finally in 1855.
Ripley has big buildings, big red brick buildings that make a nice near
rectangle round the market place. Butterley Bricks must be everywhere here, and
the works of the then Butterley Company, two miles away must have afforded
plenty of work for the locals.
Ann COPE, a widow, must have been pleased when
her son William was signed on as an apprentice in 1867. William wasn't the only
Ripley lad to do so that year. He was joined by William WATSON, Francis SKERITT,
Tom STACEY and Billy WALKER. Sam NEAL the seventeen year old son of
Jonathan
NEAL of Riddings was also included in the input.
The intention was to get to Dale Abbey, but a busy bustling market town on
market day and Patricia make for a difficult mix. I had more chance of prising a
limpet from off the QE2.
It was a mistake of monumental proportions as shop
after shop was mentally logged for a return visit and many had the pleasure of
first hand retail therapy courtesy of Patricia and my wallet. Drastic measures
were called for. The people of Ripley must help me out.
Edward ROBINSON and his
wife never had this problem when they left for Alfreton in 1708, they had a
certificate to help them on their way. In 1810 Mary DOLPHIN and her son
Samuel
looked like coming back to Ripley from Alfreton. Her husband Sam died eighteen
months previously and she had become chargeable to the parish.
We had a map that only had a part of Ripley on it, and I couldn't make out
exactly where we were, or which road to take. Surely the travelling market
folk would help me out.
"Excuse me" I said, "which is the way to Dale Abbey?"
"You need to get onto the A6 and head towards Matlock"
I've just come from
there, it can't be that way. She was thinking about Darley Dale. Ask Pauline.
No
not that way, that's the road she says pointing in an entirely opposite
direction. What's there she said, a few things I would like to see, a hermits
cave for one. Never heard of that near Derby. Dale Abbey, Darley Abbey. Suppose
it sounds near enough, still it's a step in the wrong direction. Finally Jim
would know, good old Jim, follow that road, be there in about ten minutes. We
walk fast, but not that fast. Jim had never driven his transit van through
hedgerows or over footpaths in fields before so he didn't really know which
field to turn into, still we now had the right road or at least a road going
that away. According to Jim,.... and as there were no other roads left, we took
it. I felt like the tin man in the Wizard of Oz, We're of to see the hermit,
following the black tar road. By the time we appeared on the map the hermit of
Dale might well have been in the Emerald City, somewhere over the rainbow.
Dear Sarah VALLANCE came from Denby in 1847 to find a permanent resting
place when she was buried on the third of May aged 69. William ADAMS came
from Liverpool to marry his sweet Fanny HAWKINS in 1901 at the Methodist
Chapel. Yes sweet Fanny Adams was a Ripley lass, but Elizabeth WILBRAHAM
came from Codnor Park in 1849 aged just 23 to end her days in Ripley.
We
however had Dale Abbey to reach and time was not on our side. We set out
with a purpose on what was the Nottingham Road, and we couldn't believe
it when we saw some friends from Matlock.
"What on earth are you doing
here" they said. Trying to get to Dale Abbey we replied.
"It's nice there, there's some lovely walks round there"
Are you walking
they asked. It's a good walk. Which way are you going. Go into Heanor.
We
were going nowhere, for just then some friends of our friends arrived on
the scene. This is Mike and Patricia, they are going to Dale Abbey. Ooh
it's a long way, which way are you going? Have you walked from Matlock?
Finally we got away, but time was against us.
Across the road the large
red bricked edifice with steps leading up to its doors that was once the
Primitive Methodist chapel was doing a roaring trade in selling antiques.
If only we had time I may have had a look inside. Browsing you understand.
We
were now in Greenwich, just the place to put the clock back and save
time. Unfortunately
it was the wrong Greenwich. Dale Abbey had become another Wensley. It would
have to wait until another time.
We walked to the end of the road and turned
right at the big traffic island. We were heading for Codnor, so the signs
said, but we were still not on our map.
Then we saw the sign Codnor Gate.
The last houses in Ripley were like most others red bricked, a farm house,
with a horse and ducks in the front garden hiding among the tulips. Window
boxes full of red flowers sat on top the fence that lined this busy road.
We pass the white painted Gate Inn, and a quaint cottage hidden between
the houses. Joseph CRESWELL would have known the occupiers, he was landlord
of the Gate in 1829 and he may have even known the magnificent oak tree
that sits on the opposite side of the road, across from "The Gables", a
tree that would have been a lot smaller in his day of course. He certainly
would not have known the modern industrial estate that stands across the
road and behind the houses where the tree stands.
It's a very busy road,
bounded by bay windowed houses. It's near here we finally find someone who
tells us and shows us just where we are on the map. We have gone much further
out of our way than we realised. Now at least we should have no more direction
problems.
We climb the hill that leads into Codnor itself. Codnor has an
old feel about it. Not necessarily in its buildings, but in its roads.
Four roads come together in a sort of flattened cross, the hub of the place
no doubt in times past and still today. It is no coincidence that a house
resembling a toll house is here, as well as another house dated 1854.
The
New Inn, back in 1851 run by Thomas CLARKE and his wife Sarah now sports
a new name, the "New Clock". It is stuck permanently at ten to two. The
"French Horn" another pub was run by Samuel FARNSWORTH who came from
Whittington
in Warwickshire, his 63 year old wife Sophia came from Heanor. Anthony GREGORY
a miner aged 41 in 1851 came from Darley Dale. Maybe he was trying to get
to Dale Abbey and stopped off at Ripley! James DIXON in the same year
was found here, another miner he came from Matlock. Charles VERNON an engine
worker from Codnor Park lived with two sons in law John WESTON and Edward
WEBSTER all involved with engine work.
Richard CLARKE, Joseph WILSON and
Joseph SPENCER were three lads who all went to Codnor school and all lived
on Mill Lane. Joseph OTTEWELL lived below Glass House, the name of a former
pub. Joseph's dad was a shoemaker as was John DEVENPORT'S alias WALLIS from Jessop Street.
George WINFIELD from Glass House Hill was described as a
constant truant when he was at school, or when he wasn't.
Two lads James
and Wallace WEST came from Loscoe to attend school in Codnor, they moved
on, James to Ipswich and Wallace to Boston, both in Massachusetts. Oswald
CARRINGTON from Waingroves also went to America.
We however head for Cross Hill.
We make our way down the hill towards Cross Hill, it's a busy main road.
The houses at one time red brick now many painted over or pebble dashed.
A bush of bright pink flowers really catches the eye, for we have seen
very little in the way of countryside.
Hunts of Codnor, sells cobs from
a nice little red bricked building. Back in 1829 Sam FARNSWORTH as well
as running the "French Horn" was the baker. The Codnor and Loscoe Land
Tax of 1803 has a Sam FARNSWORTH paying tax of nearly two shillings. A
John HUNT is also mentioned, as an occupier of property belonging George WOOLLEY.
Like Sam FARNSWORTH, back in 1829 Thomas CLARKE the landlord
of the New Inn also had other strings to his bow. He served the community
as the blacksmith and an old map tells us it was on Chapel Lane that a
smithy once stood, just before Jessop Street.
Looking onto the horizon the spire of St James at Cross Hill
comes into view. Near here
stood the Cross Hill and Codnor railway station. The road to Waingroves
however is still here. It's a long wide road, with nothing at the end of
it. Waingroves lies hiding round the corner. This stretch of road affords
us our first opportunity to see a glimpse of greenery, in what is a basically
a built up area.
Patricia strides out, wanting to get into the countryside
and away from the constant noise of traffic. She carries with her a new
bag, the result of a sortee in the market place at Ripley.
At the top
of the hill, a dizzying 100 plus metres high we turn right. We have nothing
against Loscoe, but the noise from the constant stream of traffic means
it would follow us all the way there if we stayed on that road. Having turned
right the noise falls away almost completely, we can even hear the birds
singing.
The parish church of Codnor, St James was built in the 1840's and the
churchyard
behind it, forming a triangular piece of ground holds only two gravestones,
both of which are putting up a determined effort to lie flat., face forward.
One
is for William REDFERN who died 11 August 1870 aged 45. This slightly interests
Patricia because that was her maiden name.
The other is for Samuel DIXON
who died 1852 aged 36.Samuel was killed in a railway accident and was from
Ilkeston.
Across the road stand a twisted Scots pine, well it looks like
a Scots pine, and it stands in the garden of a distinctive looking house,
which looks a bit like a small school. The school however was near the
church on the other side of the road, so maybe this was the school house.
Charles Edward BERESFORD who attended Denby Street Lane School formerly
went to Cross Hill school.
In 1851 living at Cross Hill, Eber HILL was
coal mining, he was born across the other side of the County at Ashbourne
around 1820. John MARTIN a year older was born at Shipley, but he became
another coal miner of Cross Hill.
The place where the quaint house stood
was on land formerly belonging to Henry KIRKLAND, nearby was land owned
by Edward SEARSON, John KELSALL and Ellen MOREWOOD. All had property along
Denby Lane. The same map, Codnor Enclosure of the 1790's also shows Hugh
WOOD and Robert STRELLEY with interests along the lane.
We carry on down
the road, a cart track on our right leads to Searson House Farm. On the
opposite side stands another red brick house, Fern Villa. Its neighbour
Park View looks as if that was once red brick, but is now painted cream.
Across
the fields in the distance we can see on the hillside, beyond the cows
and the greenery and the pylons the town of Heanor and Loscoe, red roofs
spread out before us, and beyond that on the horizon the trees that must
lie close to, if not in Nottinghamshire.
We now come upon a sign which
says "Approaching Denby Village, please drive carefully". We are not going
particularly fast but we take it on board. The hill before us rising slightly
also bends to the left and we wonder what lies ahead. Patricia in her excitement
ponders over the fact there may be houses built of sugar and spice and
liquorice. The lack of being in the countryside is obviously affecting
her. On our right are fields full of buttercups and dandelions, the hedges
of hawthorn predominate, very few stone walls in evidence. A tractor pulling
a long flat bed trailer tries its best to make Patricia feel as if she
is in the countryside but so far although it has been near, the countryside
only appears between gaps in houses, and only for a few fleeting moments.
There's
a sign telling us to slow down, I have just had an energy drink and approaching
a corner I do not want to be caught on a speed camera. The speed limit
says thirty, I drop down to twenty eight yards per minute to be on the
safe side. Although the earlier sign said Denby Village the next one says
Codnor Breach, somewhere along the way we blinked or someone took Denby
Village on a day trip.
Codnor Breach is where the Quakers had a burial ground.
Breach Cottage is a long cream coloured building
and apart from a large red brick farm just before it these according to
the Ordnance Survey map of 1900 are the only buildings in the area at that
date. Today however modern buildings, bungalows are built along one side
of Denby Dale road and thirties style houses opposite. It's a very nice
area and very clean.
Fields begin to make a more definite showing as if
the last of the built up area is making way to access to the greenery. Patricia
is deep in thought.
I could have sworn that a large tree in a front garden
is a eucalyptus tree, I half expect a koala to drop out of it. This remark
upsets Patricia train of thought. She was making up a poem about the moors,
and unfortunately the koala bear has mucked it up. She said, she loves
the smell of the moors, it makes you feel wild and free so that there's
no tangles in your life. I tell her I appreciate the thought for the day
but the koala as obviously ruined an epic.
We have now arrived at Denby
Common and in the distance "The Bulls Head" beckons. First we have a look
around this group of houses on the busy Heanor to Denby road. Denby Village
is a mile or so down the road. Maybe the village didn't move, maybe the
road sign did.
Having arrived at Denby Common I had to spare a thought for those ancestors
who came from Codnor. it was a condor moment. I mean was it Codnor, Codnor
and Loscoe, Codnor Breach or Codnor Park. The place chopped and changed
so much that they must have wondered if they were coming or going. However
here was work, Butterley Company provided plenty, the canal plied it's various
trade goods and wares, the railway was here. In it's heyday the place must
have been buzzing.
Codnor Park was an extra parochial place, which meant
that it had little interference from Civil and Ecclesiastical jurisdiction
and it's dwellers didn't pay Church or Poor rates. Codnor Park was separated
from Ironville by that great body of water called the Cromford Canal.
About
a mile or so away lay Codnor, which with Loscoe formed a township in the
parish of Heanor. Codnor and Loscoe parish was formed from parts of Denby,
Heanor and Pentrich in 1844. In 1850 a new parish called Ironville was
formed and parts of Codnor and Loscoe parish went into making up Ironville.
Ironville
was formed from the parish of Riddings and Codnor Park, no longer extra
parochial., parts of Pentrich, and Selston to give it a cross border flavour.
We
still had the parish of Codnor and Loscoe but in 1927 Loscoe was formed
as a separate parish meaning Codnor was on its own. So they called the parish....Codnor.
Codnor Breach on the other hand lay at the end of the long lane
from Crosshill called Denby Lane and into Denby Common. The "Breach" probably
referring to a way into Codnor from Denby Common. Just two fields walk
from the junction at Denby Common heading towards Heanor we are standing
in the modern parish of Loscoe. Loscoe along with Codnor formed a township
in the parish of Heanor. .....
Mirey Leys Farm is again a big red brick
affair but has running along part of it's boundary with the road a stone
wall which is quite unusual for these parts. A cut out cow, swinging from
a post announces you are entering Mirey Leys. The house has a steep roof
with a big chimney in the middle. Nearby in the yard Patricia spots that
the roof of a barn is like an old mattress, all mis-shapen and lumpy.
In
1808 Ann RILY a widow aged 64 was" killed by the house falling upon her".
The Denby burial register does not tell us if she lived at The Common, but
in 1812 another Ann RILEY aged 82 was of the Common when she was buried
in July of that year.
Another "Commoner" was Mary EYRE who was buried in 1810.
Thomas THORPE 28, was a coal miner as was Thomas CRESSWELL aged 32. Benjamin CRESSWELL
at 14 was also employed at the pits. It
was dangerous work and Charles HUNT had his details recorded in Denby burial
register in 1808. It said "he met with an untimely fate by falling down
a coal pit. He was 63.
Patrick PARKIN also of Denby drowned himself in
a pit, "after a few days of mental derangement. He was aged 53.
A road
sign tells us we are in Denby Village, which is a bit further down the
road.
The walls of one barn running alongside the road resemble a red mamba
travelling over corrugated brick. The name given this place is George Farm.
The
view from the small rise takes in Heanor and goes beyond to the fields
of rape about to burst into full glorious waxen yellow.
In 1851 Denby Common
was the home to three Robert CRESSWELL'S. the elder one was on Parish Relief
and the younger one at 16 was a coal miner. The middle Bob CRESSWELL aged
50 was described as a labourer.
John MOON from Staveley aged 65 was a blacksmith.
Opposite Mirey Leys Farm at the end of
a big field stands a large house. On its left is a big old tree. It looks
Victorian Gothic at first glance but it is much older. Its setting is perfect
for a horror film. Maybe the house at Codnor Breach could become famous
in Hollywood.
We know turn our attention to another big beast. It's head
staring at us. It's horns pointing towards us. I have been chased by a herd
of cows before now I have a huge bull before me. I mop my brow with a red
handkerchief and step aside like a matador. I push Patricia to the front
and she orders two glasses of cider. The Bulls Head is a nice old pub.
In 1848 Denby Tithe schedule shows that Robert HOLDEN was owner, but
Richard
WESTON was occupier of the Bulls Head. In 1851 the Census records a Richard
WESTON of Denby Common as a cordwainer, he is 51 and was born at Horsley
Woodhouse at the beginning of the nineteenth century. His wife Mary came
from Hazzlewood, she was four years younger and lived with her son Richard
aged 21 born Horsley Woodhouse like his father. They also had a Denby born
daughter Hannah aged nine, which would seem to suggest other Westons in
between.
The BARBER family were also in the area, Ben, aged 48 living with
his twin brother Bill. Bill and Ben were not flowerpot men but were farmers,
and Hannah their sister was the flower in the middle who kept the place
spick and span.
Another hard working woman from Denby, or so it would seem
was Sarah FLETCHER. In 1753 the Overseers Accounts record they paid two
shillings and sixpence for a smock for her. Twelve days later they paid
over two shillings more for another smock. She worked so hard that in October
she needed a handkerchief costing eightpence. No doubt to mop her brow, before having a glass of cider at the Bull.
Finally in December that
year so they wouldn't have to buy another smock, the overseers paid out
sixpence for an apron for her.
Sarah CRESWIL in November of that year received
one shilling and sixpence because she was ill. She was probably sick of
Sarah Fletcher modelling the newest smocks and apron.
The Bulls Head is
cool inside and a pleasant relief from the heat outside. It's low ceiling
requires you mind your head when going down the steps. A sign is there
to remind you. Still I reckon many a Common Denby man and unwary traveller
alike have been reminded head to beam.
Suitably refreshed, we take our
leave and set out to cross the great unknown. We are about to leave Denby
Common, but others in times past came to live in the village, like Ephraim
and Mary SPRATT. They came from Heage in 1714. John HULLAND came from
Nottinghamshire,
leaving his Hucknall Torkard home in 1755. Thomas OLDKNOW a labourer from
Shipley came here in 1789 and John and Sarah WHITE moved into Denby parish
in 1720. They were from Calton.
We walk the few yards up the hill, nearby
though not within sight is Dumble Lane. The Tithe map records that Richard ORME and a
William WOOD lived at its junction with the main road. The 1900
OS map records that the place was known as Tavern Houses, although only
one dwelling is shown on the Tithe Map.
We know come to a footpath sign
pointing into the fields. We are heading for Smalley. The path is easily
defined between the nettles as we penetrate further into the field. Ducking
under low tree branches, the horses in the next field give us a momentary
glare before getting back to the serious work of doing nothing. They just
stand and stare, not even bothering to have a meal of the grass beneath
their feet. A grass that feels like a luxury to us, having walked the roads
all this time. At last real countryside. To our right and in front of us, is
a huge field, shaped like a bow.
Not a tree on it.
Again to our right but
hidden behind two Poplar trees and hedges is a white coated cottage. Dumble
Houses owned by John MOOR at the time of the tithe is occupied by Vincent
FLETCHER. Robert GREEN also has occupancy of some property near here, again
John MOOR is the owner.
The path for some reason does not correspond to
our map. It should branch right but there is no right branch, but a faint
track that carries to the left. Orders to "stop up" and "divert" footpaths
happen quicker than the maps showing such diversions can be printed and
it becomes a necessary hazard. It adds to the excitement. Patricia has already
gone ahead of me, waiting on the other side of a wooden stile. I climb over
it and as it begins to virtually catapult me over it, she says it's a "bit
wobbly". I negotiate it using a technique that Blondin would have been
proud of.
It's very quiet on this "path" and there are not many trees,
the fields are very boggy. We should by now have crossed a stream. There
is no sign of a stream, but there is a large pool, occupied by a couple
of ducks. The pool is not on the map. Maybe the ducks have built it themselves
and want to keep it a secret.
In the distance beyond the lake is a view
that has been unchanged for centuries, You can see for miles into the distance,
nothing obscuring the view, as it's warm it's a bit hazy but on a clear
day it will be worth the visit just to see it.
There is a group of large
old looking red brick buildings to our right in the distance, which should
be Flamstead House, it sits beneath the bow shaped hill and is partly obscured
by it. John FLAMSTEAD was from Denby and became the first Astronomer Royal
working as he did at Greenwich. We had been through Greenwich earlier but
saw no observatory. Maybe it went the way of the right hand path. Or maybe
it was another Greenwich.
To our left in the distance among a group of
trees lies Robey Fields, the home of Elias BROWN in 1848.A nearby field
owned by John WRIGHT and occupied by Joseph ROWLAND would be at a later
date the site for more buildings. At the same side but further away and
behind Robey Fields is Robey Fields Farm, occupied by William CURTIS in
1848 it to is a large red bricked building or group of buildings.
At least
Robey Field hasn't changed, unlike the field paths we are using which bear
no resemblance at all to the route on the map. As we near the top of the
incline, not steep but one that goes on forever it seems we are greeted
with Hawthorn blossom, sparkling white. We are also met with a sign that
says "Beware Guard Dogs" written in black and yellow, the colour of a wasp,
as if to add emphasis.
Welcome to Kidsleypark Farm.
We stood for many a while, deciding what to do. Crossing a picket line of
Guard Dogs was not what we had in mind. Patricia is not very good with dogs,
whatever shape and size. I don't mind them, except I am wary of certain
kinds having been bitten by an Alsatian. Down at the end of the stretch
of lane from field to farm house looking over the wall standing on hind
legs was an Alsatian. Down at the end of the field standing on buckling
legs was Patricia. The dog had a huge grin on its face. Here was easy pickings.
A cat would be much harder to tackle, but me, no problem. I could envision
piles of leg bones stacked up behind the wall, along with mail bags, hikers
boots and captured blood stained white surrender flags. I wish we had caught
the hare we saw moments earlier to offer as a peace offering.
Just at the
moment when I bravely decide, we don't want to go this way anyway, a young
farmer appears and beckons us on. We go over the top. The dog gets down
as told and the whimpering starts. I have hold of Patricia's hand and gently
try to persuade her forward. The whimpering is not from the dog. Like the
worlds strongest man pulling a locomotive we inch our way forward. I point
out all the nice nettles and brambles we have to negotiate. How much less
a threat is a stinging bunch of nettles. I would sooner grasp a bunch of
nettles, even without the aid of a dock leaf, than be grasped by the dog.
Finally
we get near the house. Kidsleypark farm is not the same as Kidsley Park
which appears on the 1900 OS map across the road from the farm.
The farmer
approaches us and re-assures us the dog is no problem. Behind the wall
lies the dog, placid as anything, and when I think back it didn't even
bark once.
I feel as if I could sit on its back, open its mouth and brush
its teeth. A bit like the little birds do for and the crocodiles and hippos.
Kidsleypark farm is over two hundred years old and across the yard an
old barn is testimony to the fact that one even older stood hereabouts.
A point confirmed by a lady who appears from the house. She has lived there
twenty plus years but her husband more than double that. The younger man
, we take to be her son. They are extremely pleasant. He asked which way we
had come and I tell him I wish I knew.
I offer him twentypence for any
crop damage, (it was all grass) that we may have caused in trying to find
out how to get out of the place. He asked where we had brought the map.
Maybe he knew it was out of date. He then told us that new paths were being
made, that the big bow shaped hill was once a spoil heap from a pit. That
the new "walkways" have recently been erected. These walkways, paths between
lots of new fencing seem to lead to the pool that is occupied by the two
ducks. The whole area it seems is going to be some sort of park and the
pool will no doubt be a wonderful focal point. No wonder the paths have
been obliterated. The only time we thought we on the right path was when
we were looking for a stile when trying to get out of the field. When we
got there, an old sign said "Danger, keep out ". We turned away from there
and looked elsewhere. On an old map it makes it clear it's an old coal pit. Now
I realise how Charles HUNT could have fallen down the coal pit, he may not even have been a miner.
Charles
HUNTS name appears on Denby Land Tax of 1801. William Drury LOWE Esquire
was the proprietor of the property Charles was taxed at for one shilling
ten pence and three farthings. Widow RILEY also paid tax of three shillings
eleven and a half pence. Unfortunately her house fell in on her. We don't
know if that happened to Mildred BRADSHAW but she also was assessed at
One pound fourteen shillings and eleven and one half penny. Like widow Riley
she also was the occupier of Drury Lowe properties. Other folks under the
same Landlord were Luke and William ABEL, Paul BRENTNAL, James and
John
ELSE, John CAULTON, William and Beaumont HORSLEY, Edward RAYNES and
George SPENDLOVE and others.
Emanuel HALTON Esquire was owner of property that James GRACIAN occupied.
Robert STRELLEY Esquire was another landowner having
Thomas BARDEL, James LINDLEY and George PARKIN as occupiers.
Samuel STAFFORD
another occupier of Strelley property had the second highest assessment,
over six pounds. Paul BRENTNALL assessed at nearly eight pounds was highest.
John
BULLOCK an occupier of property of Colonel SHIRBROOK was assessed at five
pounds eighteen shillings and four pence ha'penny.
Somewhere while crossing
the fields we had crossed into Smalley parish. There were no patrols on
the border, no checking of Settlement Certificates, we didn't intend to
stay, so no Headborough or Thirdborough or Constable was needed to sit
us down and examine us as to our last legal settlement.
I wish there was. My feet were killing me.
We leave Kidsleypark Farm behind and head towards the main road.The farm
lane is lined with tall umbellifers, small stitchwort and the obligatory
outcrop of dandelions.
Kidsley Park was the place Daniel SMITH lived when
he wed Ann ROPER of Codnor. She was the daughter of William of Crich who
had died at the time of her marriage to Daniel at Codnor Breach. Daniel
was the son of William and Mary SMITH of Matlock. When Danny married in
1807 he was described as a husbandman, and his father a mason.
Also married
at Codnor Breach, were Henry BESTWICK of Heanor, a framework knitter. He
wed Hannah SEVERN the daughter of William of Codnor in 1802.
William HARRISON,
husbandman of Codnor and the son of Joseph from Hulland Ward and his wife
Elizabeth married Joyce RICHARDS daughter of Thomas and Ann from Rugeley. Their
marriage took place in 1816, again at the Quaker based Codnor Breach.
Daniel
SMITH may have trod the same fields if not the same paths as we did today. I
hope it wasn't as boggy for his boots on such an important day.
We had
thought we were heading for Carrington Farm but the path deviated before
we finally arrived at Kidsleypark.
The CARRINGTONS appear in the Smalley
Census of 1801. A "private" report which lists the householders and occupations.
It gives no ages but details who had servants.
Of the six CARRINGTON households
only William a farmer, had one female servant. His wife could have probably
done with more as she cared for six children. Robert CARRINGTON was a framework
knitter who lived alone. Eliz. CARRINGTON a widow still had a daughter to
care for, or to help her.
Also needing help in 1841 was Rebecca BENNISTON, aged
56 she was living a widow at Selston with her sons Ben 14 and Enoch aged
11. Her settlement was in dispute. She laid claim it was Smalley.
Elizabeth
HOLLAND may have found it difficult to cope, she was the wife of a soldier,
she had four children, one under three years old, and with the record showing
five in the household it would appear her husband was away.
Sam STAINSBY
a labourer, lived alone as did Benjamin BENNISTON a collier. The only other
person living singley was widow Sarah KYTE.
The largest household was that
of Benjamin KERRY, a framework knitter he had seven apprentices living
with him, six children and one inmate, possibly a lodger. With his wife these
sixteen folks made up Smalleys biggest gathering.
Billy YEOVLEY was in
competition with George SMEDLEY and Tommy WOOD as to who made the best
shoes. I suppose it was to early for them to make a foot spa, there might
have been one for sale in the village.
It's getting near five o'clock, the sky is blue and there's a warm breeze. In
days gone by, this road would have been almost idyllic to travel. Today
the lads from "Daytona" put in an appearance, briefly, they are going that
fast that if you half blink they have gone, but the roar remains and shatters
the silence. It is a very busy road.
In 1829 Joel WALKER no doubt worked
flat out to replace worn out and lost shoes on the one horse power mode
of transport in his day. In 1844 Fred WALKER occupying a house belonging
John RADFORD Esquire carried on being the village blacksmith at his shop
opposite the Baptist Chapel.
Walking along the road we can see into the
distance the small farms, bigger hamlets, larger villages that make up
this centuries old unchanged view. Trees have grown, some have fallen but
basically little has altered.
One tree that has grown is a huge Monkey
Puzzle tree, it towers above the house called Holly Mount which hasn't
a smidgen of holly to be seen anywhere. It's a huge red brick building, and
it has a long barn attached to it.
Across the road is Carrington's Farm,
both William and John CARRINGTON were farmers back in 1829 and the same
two names appear on the 1801 Smalley Land Tax between them assessed at
two pounds eighteen shillings and ten pence. William Drury LOWE is the
owner.
We always seem to find a Rose Cottage and there is one at Smalley
but Riber View ! Riber View is joined with Crich View and sure enough in
the distance you can actually see Crich Stand. Riber, for which we spend
many a moment marvelling where it can be seen from, unfortunately can't
be seen from here. Unless the hill beyond Crich Stand is Riber Hilltop,
and with the aid of a pair of binoculars you may pick out the castle. However
that may give you some idea of the distance and openness there is in that
nothing blocks the view.
The sky suddenly turns a purpley coloured
black, maybe it's trying to colour co-ordinate with my feet. It must have
been the tramping through the "everglades" between Denby and Smalley that
caused the aching feet. Now on the flat road I was hoping for some respite.
We
cross the fairly modern Kerry Drive, Kerry being a well known name in this
area. The younger William KERRY and his wife Elizabeth and Hannah their
six month old daughter didn't stay in Smalley. In April of 1781 they were
making their way to Alfreton to start a new live there. Nine years later
they would have other Smalley folks within their midst when John and Mary HICKINGBOTHAM made the move in February of 1790.
We now turn a corner and
are met with a row of around six terraced houses across the road. Groups of terraced houses are to be found dotted all around these areas. In 1844
Richard CARRINGTON was owner of these properties which were occupied by
Joseph, John and Joseph again. All CARRINGTON'S, One house was un-occupied,
Catherine TANTUM had another and Edward CARILOU the remaining one. Across
the road from this terrace a modern group of houses has been built, but
at one time this area was Allotment gardens.
Smalley Gate Farm as it was
known on the 1900 OS map lay behind the terrace row. It may have been the
farm of Isaac ABBOTT, he was described as living at Smalley Farm an agricultural
labourer born Ilkeston, he was 48, his wife Ann of thirty five years of
age, came from Kimberley.
Today this area is crossed by footpaths but
in 1830 an order was made to stop up a footpath called Cross Lane. A similar
order was made in 1821 stopping up another such way between Smalley and
Horsley Woodhouse.
It is easy to believe that the paths we walk have always
been here. To a large degree that is true, but in Smalley two have disappeared
totally, and that a long time ago.
The Nags Head pub dated 1903 is painted "smokey brown"
and stands on the corner near the
terraced houses. A big building with bay windows and the usual outbuildings. The
road continues once more flanked by red bricked terraced houses until we
come to Smalley Village Store. I put on my sunglasses as we approach for
this shop is painted a bright blue.
Going pass the road that leads to Dobholes,
just a small walk up the hill that leads into Horsley Woodhouse parish
stands a white cottage which compliments another white cottage covered
in Clematis that stands near the corner.
The Census enumerator of 1851
makes mention of a "White House in the Fields" which was occupied by
Christopher
MARTIN a farmer aged 78. His Shipley born wife just a year younger had
unmarried son and daughter Christopher and Milicent living with them.
The
same year, 1851 The "White House" this one obviously not in the fields, was home to
Thomas and Alice CRESSWELL. She was from Mappleton and she
had living with her, Millicent HALLSWORTH, her mother, born Grange.
Widow
WALLEY, presumably Woolley to most who knew her from Smalley, was in Doveridge
where for the years 1826-1829 the Overseers from Doveridge sent in their
expenses for her stay.
At least the folks from Smalley knew where she
was, unlike Samuel SEVERN who in his Will of the third of February 1870
could only guess where some of his children were. His son Charles he wrote,
"I suppose is now in America" and daughter Elizabeth ALLAN he "now
believed
to be in Australia". Five months later Samuel was dead. Did he ever find
out where his children were, did they receive the one hundred and fifty
pounds they were bequeathed by their father? Another son Robert, living
at Derby received his four houses at Smalley Common plus an unusual building, a chapel. Another son,
James received the leather. Samuel was a cordwainer
and must have sold plenty of shoes in his time.
Pity he wasn't around today.
Smalley over the years has had its fair share of sorrow. Many accounts
refer to injuries sustained at work in the mines. John HALLSWORTH in January
of 1841 and aged fifty seven was burned by wildfire, he was seeking relief
for himself and wife and daughter. By July he was still seeking relief.
The Board made note he was now suffering from fits.
Thomas KERRY was 31
when he went seeking relief in December 1841,his daughter Eliza aged seven
was recovering from very severe burns and she "required a good diet". It
was at the discretion of the Overseer that such relief was granted. This
did not bode well for years earlier around the mid 1780's Samuel LIGGATT
died from starvation according to one source through the parsimony of the
Overseers. Mrs KERRY had at this time with her daughters Eliza aged 7 and
Sarah 3 and William aged five. Having survived that ordeal Elizabeth KERRY
must have thought she could have some respite, but she was before the Board
again in September 1842. This time ten year old Mary Ann was with the family,
but not Elizabeth's husband, he had left her ten days before.
Joseph BURGOYNE
aged 58 and his family including George aged 21, James 17 and three younger
daughters were living at Greenhill Lane. Joseph a collier had been injured
in an accident at Mr OAKES pit. Again relief was supplied at the discretion
of the Overseers. Mrs BURGOYNE also had to help her family through an up-coming
enquiry as to their settlement.
Ann MARTIN aged 51 lodged with her brother,
she was infirm and asked for sixpence a week more. After deliberating the
Board decided if she was not content with what she already received she
would be welcome to "come to the Workhouse".
Thomas HUDSBY aged 61 was
residing at Riddings in Alfreton parish. In 1771 when eighteen, he left
his home in Worthington, Leicestershire and came to work as a collier in
Smalley. He stayed just three years. He later worked 27 years as a collier
at Woollaton. He later must have moved into Alfreton where the Overseer
of the Poor went to Thomas HUDSBY'S home. Thomas suffered the same agony
as John HALLSWORTH would do years later. In 1814 the Overseer for Alfreton
described it thus, " Examination at home of Thomas Hudsby in consequence
of his being incapable by being dreadfully burnt by the Wild Fire in the
coal pits of Codnor Park".
How many of their homes had we passed. How much anguish did each wall witness.
Further along the road a huge horse chestnut
tree, its flowers waiting to be converted in conkers is entwined by coils
of ivy, as if the ivy wants to attach itself to the first conker to be
"born".
The Smalley Boys School also relates on it's roll of honour board
those who fell in the Great War. Joseph BACON, George HONEY,
Mark George MEE, Cyril TOPLIS and Thomas GREEN. Sadly there are others.
Next to the
school is Smalley Post Office, which must be the smallest Post Office in
the world. Yet it sells stationery, greetings cards and gifts, add to this
stamps, letters and scales you realise where the "Tardis" has settled.
They must hate it when the Post Office issues big stamps. Not to be overawed
however there is even a sign outside stating that it takes in dry
cleaning.
Next door is "The Bell" whose boast should be "rooms to let bigger than
the Post Office ! ".A nice looking place.
Samuel BROWN the is the owner of houses and gardens as
mentioned in Smalley Tithe of
1844 and shown on the tithe map as being near here. Richard FOULK, William
CLARK and Samuel BROWN are the occupiers.
Across the road from "The Bell"
is Smalley Baptist Church looking smartly dressed having had its lawn cut. James
FLETCHER and Joseph CRESSWELL lie beneath the grass.
An old sign says we
are six miles from Derby but only four and a half from Eastwood. We are
even nearer Smalley Institute which is housing an art exhibition. Patricia
goes inside and sees two pictures which she likes. They only cost one hundred
and twenty pounds. Sadly they will not fit inside the rucksack so some other
browser has the opportunity to buy them. I must thank the woman on Ripley
market for selling Patricia such a small bag.
We carry on around the road
that leads to Bell Lane. The end house is called Bell Cottage. The Smalley
Tithe Map shows that here once stood "The Bell" Public house. Ann WESTON
mine host. She had moved from Littleover and was a widow in 1851. When she
moved the pub I do not know. She lived here with her two daughters Emma
aged 28 and 26 year old Harriet.
Stephen FOUKES a farmer born Morley about
1798 also lived on Bell Lane as did Billy RATCLIFF a 44 year old framework
knitter. He had with him in 1851 his 3 year old niece Elizabeth COOPER
from Birmingham.
The last house on this side is called Butlers Cottage,
like Bell Cottage red brick. Across the road hidden by trees is Smalley
Hall.
Down the road and turn left you come to Smalley Common. Living here
in 1851 was William SHAW, born Smalley in 1810. He had with him, his mother
Sarah, who was born at Aldwark, a tiny hamlet near tiny Grange Mill which
is near tiny Ible. Also in the same house lived Williams nephew Joseph CALDWELL
fifteen years old and born in London.
What conversations about the relative
merits of city versus country went on in that household.
We had travelled
through areas that in times past must have been a hive of activity, Butterley
Brick and Iron, the coal fields, Denby potteries, the canal system and
the railway.
The landscape is not one of large hills or moors covered in
heather but it is not entirely flat either. Some parts of the landscape
would still be remembered today by John BESTWICK. He made a copy register
for Smalley back in 1745, the year Bonnie Prince Charlie marched into Derby
just six miles away. The Young Pretender turned around and headed north
to fight a major battle. We turned north and headed home. I had a battle
too, my feet were killing me.
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