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The parish church of Bures stands on the Suffolk side of
the river Stour, and serves the parishes of Bures St. Mary, in Suffolk,
and Bures Hamlet, in Essex. In Domesday the village is referred to as "Bura"
or "Bure", and it is stated that there was a church with 18 acres of free
land. The name "Bures" could be derived from either an Old English word
"bur", meaning a cottage or bower, or from a Celtic word meaning a
boundary, but, if the village was not named until after the Norman
Conquest, it could have been called after a French village of the same
name, of which there are several. It is not known at what date the suffix
"St. Mary" was added to the name, but there are references to the village
as "Bures Nostre Dame" in the 13th century, and as "Bures Seinte Marie" in
the 14th. On some old maps and documents, the name of the village is
spelled "Bewers" or "Bewres", and this is probably the nearest phonetic
spelling to the local pronunciation. It is usually assumed that the "St.
Mary" suffix was added because the church was dedicated to St. Mary the
Virgin. This may or may not have been the case, but, as will appear in the
next paragraph, there is considerable doubt on the point.
DEDICATION
In a Charter dated 1075, Waleran Fitzranulph or Fitzralph
grants ". . . the church of St. Mary, which is mine in Buri" to
Caen Abbey. If this "Buri" refers to our own village, as stated by the
British Museum, and strengthened by the fact that the Fitzralphs owned
land in the district, and have their coat of arms on the font, it is
evidence that a church dedicated to St. Mary, existed in Bures in 1075,
before Domesday. If the earliest church on the site were dedicated to St.
Mary, for some unknown reason, and at some unknown date, the dedication
was changed to that of All Saints. This may possibly have occurred when
the original church was replaced by our present church in the late 13th
and early 14th centuries, though it would have been unusual procedure. In
the 15th and 16th centuries, a number of testators specified that they
were to be buried in the churchyard of "All Saints" church of Bures. Some
specified the churchyard of "All Saints of Bures St. Mary", indicating
that, at that time, the suffix "St. Mary" bore no reference to the church,
but only to the village. It is, however, conceivable that, if the first
church referred to in 1075, had been dedicated to St. Mary, the village
may have retained the appellation "St. Mary" from that date. It is not
known when or why, the church later lost its dedication to All Saints, and
assumed, or, possibly re-assumed its dedication to St. Mary. But
dedications tended to fall into disuse around the reigns of Edward 6th
(1547-1553), and Elizabeth (1558-1603), and to be revived again under the
influence of the religious revival in the early 18th century. If the All
Saints dedication were genuinely forgotten, after a period of about 200
years, it would be very natural to assume that, because the village was
called Bures St. Mary, the church must have been dedicated to St. Mary,
but whether the present church has ever actually been so dedicated is a
matter for speculation.
EXTERIOR
The present building is largely of 14th century origin, with
15th and 16th century additions. The lower part of the tower appears to be
of late 13th century origin, which would imply that this was built first,
and that building then continued eastwards. The greater part of the tower,
according to early historians, was built by Sir Richard Waldegrave before
his death in 1410. All the lancet windows are original. On the south-west
buttress of the original part of the tower, and facing south, can be
distinguished the outline of a scratch dial. The hole in which the gnomon
of this early form of timekeeper was set is clearly visible, and there are
twelve scratches on the lower half of the dial only, indicating
approximate hourly periods between sunrise and sunset, which would only be
roughly accurate at the time of the equinoxes. There was a spire when the
later part of the tower was built, but this was struck by lightning in
1733, and set on fire. It burned down to the tower, and the heat was so
intense that the bell chamber and bell frames were burned, and five of the
then existing six bells, were melted. On the north side of the tower is a
recess, with a stone canopy, on which three dolphins are just
distinguishable. This is assumed to be a tomb recess, but its identity is
unknown and its purpose uncertain. In the early and mid-nineteenth
century, it is recorded as a doorway into the tower, and has been walled
up at some date after 1855.
The old roof line, which is still visible on the east face of
the tower, is probably that of the original roof. It is of such a steep
pitch, the, when this roof existed, it would have been impossible to have
had the existing clerestories. The clerestories must, therefore, have been
added at a later date, and, to accommodate them, a new roof of less steep
pitch must have replaced the original. The date when this occurred is not
known, but, in common with the addition of most clerestories in Suffolk,
it probably took place in the 15th century. With the heightening of the
nave, in many churches the tower has heightened at the same time, in order
to maintain the proportion between the tower and the body of the church.
It is, therefore, possible that the clerestories, and the new low-pitched
roof, were built at about the same time as Sir Richard Waldegrave
heightened the tower, that is, before 1410, otherwise there was little
point in raising the height of the tower. But, it must be admitted that
pre-1410 was an unusually early date for the addition of clerestories. The
second, low-pitched roof was recorded in the 19th century as being leaded,
but it is not possible to say whether the leading originated in the 15th
century, though, no doubt, the roof line did. At some time in the middle
of the 19th century, possibly during the 1862/64 restoration, this
low-pitched roof was altered again to the present slightly steeper pitched
slate roof, probably to improve the drainage of rainwater. At the time of
the restoration, the clerestory windows were renewed, as was most of the
glass in the aisle windows.
There is some fine knapped flint work at the east end of the
Waldegrave Chapel, dating from the early 16th century.
The clock, with four faces, was installed in 1923 in memory of
Mr. William Garrad of Brook House, and was presented, and endowed by the
Garrad family.
The Porches
The 14th century north porch, restored in 1873, is one of the
finest in Suffolk, and must have been built as the principal entrance to
the church at the same time as the nave and aisles. The main arch is
fashioned out of two, solid oak, whole timbers, and there are original
cusped bargeboards, and open tracery round the porch, both typical
features of the period. There is a blocked up stoup in the wall.
The south porch is a very fine example of late 15th or early
16th century brickwork, with fine tracery in the side window. A south
porch was known to exist in 1517, which was probably the present one. At
one time the porch was surmounted by a statuette, the recess for which is
clearly visible, but this was removed at some unknown date. There is an
unusual stoup, with a carved corbel bowl. This is on the right of the
door, in common with most stoups, since the right hand was used for
crossing oneself with holy water. The 14th century doorway is surmounted
by large hood mould stops, one carved with a knight in camail. The 15th
century oak doors still show good tracery, and fragments of a beautiful
carved trail border, with a design of birds. The brickwork of this porch
was cleaned during the 1862/64 restoration.
INTERIOR
The Nave and Aisles
The corbels which supported the upright timbers of the original
nave roof, are visible below the present flat, and ugly, ceiling, which
was probably constructed during the 1862/64 restoration. Most of the
corbels are original, and there are some fine examples of carving,
representing angels holding a shield, or an open book, or playing a
trumpet or lute. From the constructional details of the pillars, it
appears that both aisles were built at the same time as the nave, which is
unusual. This is borne out by the fact that the north porch, leading into
the north aisle is of 14th century construction, and the doorway leading
into the south aisle, also appears to be 14th century. The pillars and
arcades are 14th century, and it can be seen that two of the south pillars
have been repaired. This was done in 1862/64, as these pillars had sunk,
and had to be rebuilt.
The Tower
The base of the tower, now used as the choir vestry, is the
oldest part of the church dating from the late 13th or early 14th century.
The springing of the originally intended stone vaulting is visible, with
some fine examples of carving at the base of the springers. Of interest
are the names carved over the centuries in the soft stone of the pillars
supporting the arch between the tower and the nave, the earliest of which
is dated 1531.
The Bells
It is not known for how long there have been bells in the
church. Possibly the earliest reference to "bells" is in a bequest dated
1442. By this date, the upper part of the tower, containing a bell
chamber, must have been completed. In 1733, when the tower was struck by
lightning, and the bells melted in the subsequent fire, there were,
according to the Registers, six bells, the third, fourth, fifth, sixth,
seventh, and tenor. One only survived the fire, the sixth, dated 1658,
which survives to this day. The fourth, fifth and seventh were recast in
1734, after the fire, and the third and tenor were recast in 1826. The
third, fourth and fifth were recast again in 1921, as a memorial to Alan
Petit, a chorister for fifty years. The treble bell was presented by Dr.
Thomas Wood, to mark the "Festival of Britain" in 1951, and the second was
installed in his memory, by public subscription the same year. These
completed the full peal of eight bells, among the finest in Suffolk.
The Vestry
According to early historians, the vestry, at the east end of
the north aisle was built as a vestry by Sir Richard Waldegrave, who died
in 1410. But the present vestry roof is of the low-pitched tie beam,
cambered type, which was a building improvement, which rarely reached
Suffolk before about the end of the 15th century. The door and doorway
from the chancel into the vestry; and the wrought iron grille, also appear
to be 16th century. It might be assumed, therefore, that the vestry was
rebuilt, or repaired, some time in the 16th century, possibly in
connection with Sir Richard Waldegrave's tomb (See "The Sanctuary" below).
The door from the chancel has an unusual type of wrought iron latch, and
is surmounted by a hood mould, carved with the heads of angels, and there
is some fine carving around the stone door frame.
The Font
The fine octagonal font has a bowl with demi-figures of angels,
holding coats of arms, and stands on a stem with tracery panels,
buttressed with the four signs of the Evangelists, now much defaced. It is
typical of traditional East Anglian fonts of the 15th century. It appears
that the bowl has been restored, or replace, but not the stem.; there is
evidence that a "font" was presented in 1545 by, either Sir William
Waldegrave (died 1559), or the Lady Juliana, his wife (died 1564), and it
is thought that this presentation may refer, either to the restoration of
the 15th century bowl only, or to the presentation of a new bowl, perhaps
incorporating the coats of arms, for the first time.
On the east face of the font are the Tudor arms of England,
and, in a clockwise direction, the arms of De Vere, Fitzralph, Mortimer,
De Cornard, Waldegrave, De Bures, and Mortimer of Clare. The position of
the font is somewhat unusual, since it was normally the custom to place
the font near the principal entrance to the church, which is the north
door.
The Star Chamber Proceedings
The Star Chamber was a committee of the Royal Council,
established by Henry 7th (1485-1509), where prisoners, civil or criminal,
were tried and sentenced without benefit of jury. It was not abolished
until 1641, in the reign of Charles 1st. In the first year of the reign of
Queen Elizabeth 1st (1558), three inhabitants of Bures were arraigned
before the Star Chamber, charged with riot, that is to say, damaging and
stealing from, the tombs of Sir Richard and Sir William Waldegrave, and
from the rood loft and screens. Extracts of the charge, taken from the
Star Chamber Proceedings, give most detailed evidence of the positions and
construction of both tombs, and of rood loft and screens. Any reference in
this Guide to the Star Chamber Proceedings, or to the S. C. P., refers to
the extracts mentioned above.
The Chancel
The chancel dates from the 14th century. Above the Vicar's
stall, on the south side, and now forming part of the pillar supporting
the chancel arch, is a stone projection, which is actually a fluted
piscina, with a drain hole emptying into the pillar. This must have been a
piscina for an altar in the rood loft, which was a rare feature. Rood
loft, and screens were removed and burned in the reign of Elizabeth 1st,
on 29th September 1559.
Where the organ now stands, there was originally a 14th century
chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Pity, built by Sir Richard Waldegrave
prior to his death in 1410. There is still a piscina in the east wall of
the chapel, behind the organ, and a stone bench can be seen by looking
through the north window of the chapel from outside the church. The very
beautiful stone arch of this chapel is, unfortunately, obscured by the
present organ casing, which was given in memory of the Revd. Arthur
Hanbury in 1908. A water colour by Seymour Lucas, R. A., which hangs in
the Waldegrave Chapel, shows this arch.
The Sanctuary
The stone tomb between the sanctuary and the vestry, with stone
brackets to carry the now missing wooden canopy, is something of a
mystery. It stands in the exact position specified by Sir Richard
Waldegrave in his Will, and the S. C. P. describe it as in this position
in 1558. There seems little doubt that the effigies on the tomb slab, with
the brasses removed, represent Sir Richard Waldegrave, died 1nd May 1410,
and Joan, his wife, who died 10th June 1406. She was lady Joan De Bures,
the widow of Sir Robert De Bures, who had died in 1361. The indents on
this slab are still clear, and show that the male effigy was clad in
camail and jupon armour, which was superseded by full plate armour not
later than about 1410. The effigy is also helmeted, which was an unusual
feature after about 1500. However, the tomb chest itself appears to be
16th century, and not early 15th, and does not conform entirely with the
description of Sir Richard's tomb in the S. C. P. the reason that slab and
chest are, apparently, of different periods, can only be a matter for
conjecture. It is evident from the S. C. P. that the tomb chest and its
canopy were extensively damaged in 1558, and it is possible that the
Waldegrave family repaired the chest at that time. It also seems that, at
sometime in the 16th century, the vestry and its door may have been
reconstructed, and the arch and wrought iron grille to the north of the
tomb made. Possibly the repairs the tomb chest, the reconstruction of the
vestry and its door, and the construction of the arch and grille, all took
place at the same time in the 16th century, maybe immediately after the
damage done in 1558. But, it is admitted that there was no evidence to
confirm this.
The large corbels which supported the highly ornate and gilded
wooden canopy, which was about 4 ft. high, are finely carved, though they
have been defaced at some unknown date. The Motif of an angel holding an
open book is the same as that of a 14th century corbel in the north aisle.
On the underside of the corbel by the vestry door is a grotesque carving
of a large dog, resembling a bull mastiff, secured by a collar and massive
chain.
The S. C. P. indicate that, during the reign of Henry 8th
(1509-1547), sir Richard's tomb slab and canopy were used to form the
Easter Sepulchre. It is stated that when the tomb was used as a sepulchre,
there were figures of angels, holding candles, at each end of the tomb,
which is a possible explanation of the recesses which still exist. The
annual practice of building the sepulchre apparently ceased from 1548, as
a result of an Order in Council of Edward 6th.
In a vault below the Sanctuary lie the remains of Mary
Constable, aunt of John Constable, the famous artist, and a simple stone
tablet on the wall records her death in 1792. Next to this are two other
tablets, commemorating the deaths of members of the Sidey family, of Bures
Hamlet, between 1812 and 1853, and there are three 18th century floor
tombs of this family, just inside the south door of the Waldegrave Chapel
the stained glass east window, and the ornate reredos behind the altar are
mid-Victorian probably dating from the 1862/64 restoration. Earlier, in
the east window were two coats of arms, one quartered and including
Ferriers, the other De Bures.
The Waldegrave Chapel or Chantry
This stands at the east end of the south aisle, and was founded
in 1514 by Sir William Waldegrave, who died, reputedly at the age of 103,
in 1527 (old style) or 1528 (new style). By Elizabethan times it had
become, according to the S. C. P. "A certain little Ile or Chappell
there builded and set up p'posely as for an Oratory. Wherein the gentlemen
and gentilwomen of worship of that p'ish might pryvatly sitte to use their
prayers and meditacions …" Later it fell into disuse for this purpose,
and in 1889, in a Faculty to remove a gallery installed in 1862/64, it is
described as "… what was then the Waldegrave Chantry, but which is now
the east end of the south side of the chancel" indicating that it no
longer held the status of a Chapel. In 1927, as recorded by the modern
stained glass window, it was restored to its former use as a chapel by the
Probert family, under a Faculty "To restore to its sacred use the
Waldegrave Chapel", which permitted the re-installment of an altar
with its customary ornaments, a prayer desk, etc.
Sir William Waldegrave, who founded it, specified that he was
to be buried "…under the arch between the High Altar and the Chapel of
Jesus", and the S. C. P. refer clearly to the tomb of Sir William as "…erected
and standying the south side of the Chauncell …" in 1558. All traces
of this tomb have disappeared, and its fate is unknown. From the above
extract from Sir William's Will, it is apparent that the Waldegrave
Chantry and the Chapel of Jesus must have been one and the same. This is
further borne out by the Will of Sir George Waldegrave, son of Sir
William, who died in 1528, the same year as his father, in which he direct
that he should be buried "… in the aisle of Jesu there, near to the
tomb of my father …". There is a tomb chest against the south wall,
with a slab, stripped of its brasses, inclined on top of it, which is
believed to be that of Sir George Waldegrave. There is a fine detached
monument to a later William Waldegrave (died 1613), his wife Elizabeth,
and their ten children. All the arms of the figures have been knocked off,
presumably by Dowsing in 1643. A stone bench, with carved frontal, stands
against the west wall of the chapel, and appears to be of an earlier date
than the chapel, and may have been moved from elsewhere in the church.
There is a fine band of carving on the oak beam supporting the roof of the
chapel, where it meets the wall of the chancel. This depicts a series of
mediaeval figures, with doleful faces, studying an unbroken length of
curling parchment. At the bases of the upright timbers supporting the
roof, in the north-east and north-west corners of the chapel, are finely
carved figures. In the east wall is an aumbry.
Other Monuments
On a pedestal in the north aisle is the very rare wooden effigy
of a knight in mail coif, with hauberk, with gambeson beneath, surcoat,
mail hose and knee cops, with shield intact, sword belt and part of sword,
legs crossed and feet spurred, with lion at his feet, and angels
supporting the cushion beneath his head. The effigy is carved in sweet
chestnut, and dates from about 1330. It is one of only two of that period
in Suffolk. Its identity cannot be proven, as there are no identification
marks, but it is almost certain that it represents Sir Richard De Cornard.
This belief was current as long ago as the 16th century, when the effigy
was in the same position under the window. It is believed that the body is
buried beneath the north wall. At some period the effigy has been given a
coat of paint, presumably with the idea of preserving it, which accounts
for the polished appearance of the wood.
Just inside the door in the south aisle, are two floor tombs in
which are interred the remains of members of the Pelham family, between
1746 and 1780. This family, who lived at Ferriers, was descended from the
Waldegraves, and some members were among the earliest emigrants to the
United States in the early 17th century. The town of Pelham in
Massachusetts is named after them.
Registers
The parish registers are complete, and date from 1538. All
registers, except those of the 20th century, are now deposited for safe
custody with the Suffolk Records Office, in Bury St. Edmunds, and can be
consulted there.
A list of the Incumbents and Patrons of the church from the
year 1150 to the present day, is hung on the wall just inside the north
door. The living has been in the gift of the Board of Patronage of the
diocese of St. Edmundsbury and Ipswich since 1949.
Will Dowsing
Will Dowsing, who did so much damage to East Anglian churches
under the Commonwealth, records the following: -- "BUERS, Feb. the
23rd. We brake down above 600 superstitious Pictures, 8 Holy ghosts, 3 of
God the Father and 3 of the Son. We took up 5 inscriptions of quorum
animabis propitietur Deus; one pray for the soul. And Supersticiouns in
the Windows, and some divers of the Apostles." This was written in the
year 1643. Dowsing's fee for this work was one noble (about 33p), which
was charged to the parish.
What is, perhaps, surprising, is that, after the widespread
destruction of church property, which had previously taken place during
the reigns of Henry 8th, Edward 6th, and Elizabeth 1st, there was so much
left for Dowsing to destroy. Evidently, Bures had not complied very
strictly with previous Royal Edicts.
St. Stephen's Chapel
About 1 mile north-east of the church, down a lane off the
Assington road, lies the Chapel of St. Stephen. This was the private
chapel of the Manor of Tany, or Tauney, and was dedicated to St. Stephen
on St. Stephen's Day 1218, by Stephen Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury.
It contains the effigies of the 5th, 8th, and 11th Earls of Oxford, the
only survivors of the 21 tombs, once in the old Earls Colne Priory, which
fell into ruins after the Reformation, and of which no trace now remains.
Owing to confusion in trying to piece together the tombs, after the
destruction of the original Priory, although there are, apparently, only
three tombs with effigies, it seems likely that these are, in fact, made
up of parts of seven different tombs. This chapel had fallen into disuse
after the Reformation, and became, among other things, a barn. Hence its
local name of Chapel Barn. It was restored to its present condition in the
1930s by members of the Probert family , and re-consecrated. It has long
been popularly held to stand on the traditional site of the coronation of
King Edmund, Saint and Martyr, crowned King of the East Saxons on
Christmas Day 855 or 856, as corroboration of which the chronicler
Galfridus de Fontibus described the coronation as having taken place at "Bures,
which is an ancient royal hill". It must be admitted, however, that De
Fontibus was writing in the 12th century, 300 years after the supposed
event.
Revised J. F. T. 1985
Acknowledgements
P. Northeast
H. Munro Cautley, Suffolk Churches
W. G. C. Probert, History of Bures
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